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Laurenceís
entry, 24th November
(Late surf out Raul) Hmmm how do you
describe it? Half a dozen barrels in one surf, with the last one a nice
clean entry and exit with an orange and purple sunset backdrop, followed
by a too-tired-to-do-a-turn, almost running Jai over before paddling
(slowly!) back to the boat. I don't think I've ever had that many barrels
in a single surf. The sun was glaring off-the-lip pretty bad when we
first got out there, only to have the sun sink an extra few degrees
to provide champagne conditions for video, as Jai described it Basically,
v. good surf, lotsa barrels, magic conditions, all good things.
Jai's entry, 24th November
Went for a late arvo surf at Raul, the 6 surfers from Sunshine
Coast were still out there, but soon came in and let us get some good
waves although the sun was right where the lip of the wave should have
been making it hard to see it. I saw Laurence get a nice barrel in front
of me before the wave snapped shut but he somehow managed to make his
escape out the front and kept going on the wave I don't know how he
did it but before the end of the surf, I got a similar one (although
probably a touch smaller) and the roles were reversed. However I couldn't
keep going on the wave and ended up deposited on the reef ,have I mentioned
how much I like my booties??
Laurenceís entry, 26th November
Had another surf out Nagoís Right with the kiwis this morning Everyone
with the exception of Mark got out there, with everyone taking turns
on the disposable cameras. I really don't think Jai needs his lollies
or tea-flavoured sugar water, just a camera. The second I grabbed the
camera off him, he exploded busting out huge carves, off-the-lips and
barrels, so I snapped off about six shots in quick succession. Todd
also thanked me for letting him get a shot of someone in the barrel.
Very glad to be of service to you, Todd!
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