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Mundaka
is not a wave you can cut back on because at the right size it's a dirty
mean freight train wave. It would be one of the longest lefts I've surfed.
One wave was was so perfect I just had this feeling and threw my hands
above my head and screamed my head off while Spanish surfers paddeling
over the shoulder screamed back to me. Then I got one wave right down
the line and started to paddle back out the point I could see a huge
clean up set fill the horizon so I started to paddle out wide in the
last 40 minutes of the session the swell went from 6 to 8 foot to 10
to 12 the swell was coming from that heavy low. Mundaka started to close
out I had been out in the water for well over two hours before this
had started to happen
It was starting to get heavy I got back to the take off zone and there
was only two other surfers left the others had been washed in. I could
see them standing on the distant rocks on the shoreline, I knew I had
to get in .
The offshore wind had gotten stronger (it was blowing that strong it
would off blown the tits of a bull) and was making it hard to paddle
into the waves and some were to huge to paddle into. I started to shit
myself but kept calm there was a huge crowd watching from shore I paddled
into a solid 10 foot wave and got to the bottom and was lining up the
biggest close out set you had ever seen so I jumped off the back of
the beast . Then I caught the biggest wave of my surf and rode it just
hanging on out of control all the way in I got worked at the end but
I was so happy to be standing on a sand bank after it! After coming
in I bought a Mundaka t-shirt. I felt I had surfed a special wave, the
type of wave you only experience a hand full of times in your life.
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