Mundaka is not a wave you can cut back on because at the right size it's a dirty mean freight train wave. It would be one of the longest lefts I've surfed.
One wave was was so perfect I just had this feeling and threw my hands above my head and screamed my head off while Spanish surfers paddeling over the shoulder screamed back to me. Then I got one wave right down the line and started to paddle back out the point I could see a huge clean up set fill the horizon so I started to paddle out wide in the last 40 minutes of the session the swell went from 6 to 8 foot to 10 to 12 the swell was coming from that heavy low. Mundaka started to close out I had been out in the water for well over two hours before this had started to happen
It was starting to get heavy I got back to the take off zone and there was only two other surfers left the others had been washed in. I could see them standing on the distant rocks on the shoreline, I knew I had to get in .
The offshore wind had gotten stronger (it was blowing that strong it would off blown the tits of a bull) and was making it hard to paddle into the waves and some were to huge to paddle into. I started to shit myself but kept calm there was a huge crowd watching from shore I paddled into a solid 10 foot wave and got to the bottom and was lining up the biggest close out set you had ever seen so I jumped off the back of the beast . Then I caught the biggest wave of my surf and rode it just hanging on out of control all the way in I got worked at the end but I was so happy to be standing on a sand bank after it! After coming in I bought a Mundaka t-shirt. I felt I had surfed a special wave, the type of wave you only experience a hand full of times in your life.

 
 
 
 



Matt and Rachael are currently traveling the west coast of AUSTRALIA stay tuned
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